Tools
Sleeve Decrease Calculator
Sleeve Decrease Knitting Calculator
BOOKMARK THIS PAGE so you can find it easily next time. Here are two Sleeve Decrease Calculators. They will help you calculate how many increases or decreases you need from the upper to the lower parts of your knitted sleeve. Add the sleeve length to find out how many rows or rounds there are in between each increase or decrease.
- Use the Quick Calculator when you already know the number of stitches for the upper and lower edges of the sleeve.
- Use the Detailed Sleeve Calculator when you have either the measurements or the stitches for the upper and lower edges. If you are using a stitch pattern, you can add the number of stitches so the results round to the nearest multiple. (For example, if you are using a stitch pattern of 5 stitches, the results will round to the nearest multiple of 5). You can add your name and email and I will email you the results for your reference. This will subscribe you to my monthly newsletter from which you can unsubscribe at any time.
There is more explanation of the sleeve calculators below.
Quick Sleeve Calculator
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Detailed Sleeve Calculator
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More Details about the Calculators
When you add the sleeve length (measuring from under arm down to the sleeve edge), make sure you allow some space at the top and bottom to work “straight”. That is, to work without any increases or decreases. Working straight will keep your edges and joins smooth and flat. There is option in the Detailed Sleeve Calculator to alter the height at the top and bottom of the seam which will recalculate how many rows/rounds are between incs/decs.
Where do you start or finish the upper arm?
The upper arm measurement is your bicep circumference plus the ease needed for the design of the garment. Here are a few standard knitting pattern examples. See the image of the three patterns above. The red line shows where to measure each upper arm.
- The left image is the shape you might knit when you are working back and forth in separate pieces (front, back and sleeves) which are sewn together afterwards. The sleeve is usually knitted from the bottom up. In this example, you can see it starts narrow at the bottom. Then, it makes increases on each side (usually 1 st each side of a row, every few rows). The increases finish when you get to the widest point at the red line. This will be your upper arm measurement in the calculation. Above that, the sleeve cap begins which might be curved or angular, a tall bell shape for a fitted sleeve or a shallow bell shape for a t-shirt sleeve. Those widths are not needed for this calculation. It is ok to finish your increases before you reach the sleeve cap.
- The centre image shows a sweater knitted usually in the round from the top down. You start with the collar or turtle neck. Next, you work the yoke which is shown by the round dashed line. Once you’ve finished the yoke, you would have reached the armhole. From here, the yoke is split into the body and two sleeves. Your upper arm measurement will be these sleeve stitches plus any extra stitches that are created under the arm (shown in the diagram as the short, horizontal line coming out from the yoke).
- The right image is a raglan shaped sweater which might be worked top down or bottom up. The red line shows you the measurement for the upper arm at the point where it joins the body. Just like the yoke pattern, there are a few extra stitches added for depth under the arm. Your upper arm stitches include these.
Where do you start or finish at the bottom of the sleeve?
If you have a lace or ribbed edge/cuff, subtract that height from the sleeve length measurement. If you have an all over pattern, make sure you are confident about making increases and decreases without disturbing the stitch pattern close by. This would be on the row edges, when working back and forth, or along the vertical seam when working in the round. The middle and right images show, when working down towards the wrist, the knitting evens out on the lower arm. From here, it is worked straight the rest of the way. You have the choice of making an even amount of decreases down the full length or make the decreases faster for a slim fit on the forearm.
Of course, these aren’t the only sleeve shapes. You might have a fluted, flared sleeve or a puff that bulges at the shoulder and gathers in at the base. Whatever shape you are making, think about how you want the shape to start and finish as you decide how much of the sleeve length to include in your calculation. I’ll be writing more on this blog in the future about sleeve shapes and how to make design choices that best flatter your body shape.
Find more tools and calculators for your knitting projects.
Check out Annabelle Drumm’s knitting patterns.
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